Nan Madol: Ruins of an Ancient Pacific Civilization
- Lilou HARDONNIERE
- Nov 27
- 3 min read
By Swapnarka Arnan
Located off the southern coast of Pohnpei in the country Micronesia is Nan Madol, a large complex of more than 100 artificial islets built on a coral reef. Constructed between 1200 and 1500 CE with serious walls of basalt and coral stones, these islets have within them the remains of stone palaces, temples, tombs, and residences. Together, they form the ceremonial heart of the Saudeleur dynasty, an era that witnessed one of the most colorful pages in the Pacific Islands' history.
Nan Madol is the only known ancient city built entirely over a coral reef, and it is surrounded by walls made of stone. Affectionately called the "Venice of the Pacific," its title translates to "between the intervals" in honor of the waterways that flow between the islets. The structures themselves are an engineering wonder of the prehistoric era: the pillars of some basalt weigh up to 100,000 pounds, but were transported and positioned without mortar, heavy machinery, or scuba gear. The largest building, Nandauwas, is a royal temple surrounded by 25-foot-high walls, which stand intact centuries after the city was deserted.
Saudeleurs appeared around the year 1100 and built Nan Madol around the early 1200s. Pohnpeian oral legend says that the first Saudeleurs to arrive on Pohnpei were two brothers, Olisihpa and Olosohpa, canoe-exploring sorcerers who were endowed with magic by the gods and used their spell to build Nan Madol. This so impressed the native Pohnpeians that they pleaded with the Saudeleur to marry into their lineage. When the death of one of the brothers came later, the second proclaimed himself as king. Nan Madol was built by the Saudeleur as a temple for the farm god Nahnisohn Sapw, the God worshiped by the Saudeleur elite.
The Saudeleur wielded political and religious authority in a manner unprecedented for the western Pacific. Ranking chiefs had the biggest houses in the city, and archaeology has produced artifacts that reflect their higher status.
Warrior hero Isokelekel conquered Pohnpei in 1628 and defeated the Saudeleur tribe. Isokelekel, in Pohnpeian oral tradition, was a demigod and the wrathful son of the Pohnpeian god of storms Nahn Sapwe, who was disillusioned with the alleged tyranny of the Saudeleur.
Historians believe that Isokelekel was the leader of a Micronesian settler group from the Kosrae island that bordered the Pohnpei island. Isokelekel, with his war band of warriors, women, and children, gained the favor of the Pohnpeian people who were oppressed to vanquish the Sandaleur. The significance of Nan Madol to Pohnpeians lost its value gradually and it was finally abandoned in the 18th century.
The scale, sophisticated planning, and unique placement of Nan Madol make it one of the region's most important Pacific archaeological sites. It is a testament not only to Micronesian engineering brilliance but also to the advanced social, political, and religious structures of the time. The city's plan, with nobility separated from commoners and religious leaders focused in sacred enclaves, bears witness to a highly stratified society.
The location today is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and a listing of World Heritage in Danger due primarily to siltation of its water courses, uncontrolled development of mangroves, and degradation of its stone foundations. The whole 18-square-kilometer location is protected by the Pohnpei Historic and Cultural Preservation Act (2002) and administered by a management committee with the Pohnpei Tourism Office, customary landowners, and the Nahnmwarki Chief.
Nan Madol is not just an archaeological wonder; it is one of the most significant parts of Pohnpeian history and culture. The modern-day Nahnmwarki and traditional chiefs remain connected with the site, connecting the island's present to its mythological past. For tourists, Nan Madol offers a special opportunity to step into a city of rich history, shrouded in myths, where the waters splash against the hems of old stone walls, whispering stories of warriors, gods, and an extinct empire.
Sites like Nan Madol are a testament to the rich history of the Pacific Islands that often gets overlooked by the rest of the world.
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