Te Arawhata: A Kiwi connection in the heart of France

By Sam Rea Rankin

I recently had the opportunity to visit Le Quesnoy, a small, fortified town near the Franco/Belgian border and it's somewhere that may not be the first place that comes to mind when you think of Franco/Kiwi relations. Yet, this town is rich in history and holds a deep connection with Aotearoa New Zealand.

On the 4th of November 1918, Kiwi soldiers of the New Zealand Rifle Brigade liberated the village in a somewhat unconventional manner. Foregoing artillery bombardment to spare civilian lives, Kiwi soldiers instead used flaming oil barrels to provide smoke cover, and whilst an assault was being launched on the towns gate, a small detachment of men circled the wall and on a narrow platform, scaled Le Quesnoy’s 13-metre ramparts with a ladder. The entry of New Zealand soldiers into the town led to the Germans' surrender. The assault on the 4th claimed the lives of 122 New Zealanders and left 375 wounded, but it resulted in the capture of roughly 2,000 German soldiers and freed the town after four years of occupation - all without a single civilian casualty.

Since the liberation, there exists an enduring connection between Le Quesnoy and Aotearoa, a great friendship to the people who came from “l’autre extrémité du monde” to liberate them. The New Zealand Liberation Museum, also named ‘Te Arawhata’ - meaning ‘the ladder’ in Te Reo Māori, was opened in Le Quesnoy in October 2023 and provides an immersive experience into the liberation of the town, allowing one to follow the footsteps of the men who participated in the assault and to connect with their stories.

I found the experience in Le Quesnoy to be incredibly moving. Run by a small and passionate team of New Zealanders in France, Te Arawhata is an incredible testament to the memories of these Kiwi soldiers who fought to liberate Le Quesnoy, and it serves as a place for New Zealanders to connect with their history on the western front.

Kei roto i tō tātou hītori, he oranga mō tātou.

Within history is our future wellbeing.

(Quote by Te Arawhata)